Handmade Korean traditional craft, embroidery, jasu (자수)
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The Korean jasu is represented by its multiple, twisted strands of threads, providing a dynamic and 3D effect and seems to make the embroidered objects stand out against the background.
The Korean jasu has a very long history with relics such as spindle cart, bone and stone needles and needle pouches dated from the prehistoric period being found. With the development of textile and dyeing techniques, Korean jasu also grew in sophistication, e.g., usage of golden threads and high quality silk, coloring of threads, etc.
During the Goryeo Dynasty, Korean jasu has become extremely luxurious and there were mainly 4 different types of Korean jasu, namely, boksik jasu, giyong jasu, gamsang jasu, and Buddhist jasu. Bosik jasu was used to decorate clothing, and as clothing was strictly regulated according to social status and rank, there were rules that needed to be complied with. For example, ordinary men and women were prohibited from decorating silk with dragon or phoenix patterns and golden threads. Giyong jasu was used to decorate the materials used in the king’s palaces. Gamsang jasu was used to decorate ornamental materials and was often used in decorating folding screens in bedrooms or living rooms. As Buddhist was a national religion at that time, Buddhist jasu was heavily used in statues of Buddha or in temples.
During the Joseon Dynasty, the legislation of the hyungbae (official insignia) system was significant in the development of Korean jasu. Hyungbae refers to the embroidered emblems representing the ranks of government officials on the chest and back of the official robes of the royal family and government officials. The most skilled artisans were mobilized and placed in central and regional government offices to produce clothing and related items such as hyungbae for the royal family and high-ranking officials. Also, specialized subang (embroidery room) was set up to be exclusively responsible for the embroidery of clothing and other items for the royal family in the palace. It was not easy to join the subang – women were required to complete a certain level of education and expertise before getting selected and registered for the work. The Korean jasu done by these skilled artisans and subang was delicate, standardized and sophisticated (e.g., using golden stitches and colored threads) and was referred to as gungsu (palace jasu).
Pattern:
Flowers
Dimensions:
42x42x5cm
17.7x17.7x1.96inch
The description about jasu taken from:
https://koreancultureblog.com/2019/09/01/korean-embroidery-jasu/
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